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BILL D: I'm surprised we didn't get on that subject and I'm glad you brought it up because it is a damn good question. A few years ago, I spoke with Gerald Stewart (Johnny Stewart Game Calls) at length about this and he felt that light intensity was more important than color, but I don't think anyone has ever done intensive research on the subject of one color being better than another.

I know from experience that critters don't care for a bright white or red light square in their eyes, but you definitely have to partially blind them with the fringes of the light or they will see the vehicle. On full moon nights, I used to pull off the red lens and work the white light very fast to try and pick up the eyes before critters got close enough to see the truck - once they got hit square with the light then I could work 'em in with the edge of it. Probably like a flashbulb going off in your eyes - the light stays burned on the retina for a while.

ALEX: Nocturnal animals normally are "red blind". Foxes do have some "red" vision. However, the "blue" and "amber" are not good choices. Guess I qualify as an "expert." Spent a lot of time doing this sorta' research while at the "U."

JOHN: Just out of curiosity, what is it about blue and amber that makes them different. At the risk of getting a college education in here can you elaborate on that blue and amber thang a bit?

ALEX: It has to do with where in the spectrum you are most sensitive. For instance, humans are most sensitive in the "apple" yellow green, unless they have a vision anomaly or cataracts. Night vision animals have increased vision in the blue, and almost no sensitivity to the red end of the spectrum. 'Possum are night critters, I think, but Fox are not. They (Fox) DO have red vision at night, but it is diminished (just as in humans) if the light level is kept low. (This is why the lesser intense of the beams works better) As for amber, it would reflect from the eyes better (empirical observation) so would be useful there, but if the critter is night blind, it wouldn't matter too much (wouldn't spook him too much). Indeed, the Corning 505 amber lenses make good night driving glasses because they cut out the blue which causes glare, much as yellow glasses do for shooters. Remember it is blue that night critters see best.

So.... red is better, amber is not quite as good from the spook point, but best for reflection from eyes, and blue is a no-no.

JOHN: Now THAT is the explanation I was waiting to hear. Okay, blue is out. Amber not so out. My Burnham Brothers SL-18 scope light has an amber lens. It puts out a pretty good light for about 100 yards, enough to cause the eyes to shine anyway. I think the reason it doesn't have a red lens is because it would not reach as far.

RAY: I suppose I need a bit of an education also. If an animal is red blind as you say, what color light will the animal see? If the red is canceled out, then they will see white or an off shade of something else, correct? I can agree that they may not be able to determine red as a color on a surface, but we are talking about a bright light pointed into the eyes. I doubt that a person that is color blind would miss the light, but it would appear to be a different color. Reference, my uncle is red color blind and many years ago he had a habit of running red lights, this is before a national standard of Red on top, green on Bottom was established.

 LEONARD: As Bill said, intensity is important. My vote for night hunting used to be amber, and it for sure works. Nothing picks up eyes better. The only animal that really is light shy is the coyote and when he is light shy, red is the answer most of the time. All predators will come in under an amber light, it's just a matter of how well they respond. I have called in lions, Bobcat, Coyote, Badger, red, gray and kit Fox, Raccoon, and Ringtail Cat under an amber light. However, I use red most of the time. There are places where the distances are so vast that using a red can work against you, because it won't pick up eyes beyond a certain distance, and coyotes can hang up outside of that distance and you never see them until you burn a 360, then they get spooked, so no amount of coaxing will bring them in closer. They usually blink and adios amigo. And then there are the dumb ones, thank God for the dumb ones.

JOHN: Yes, thank God for the dumb ones, especially those dumbern me!

BILL D: I'm sure not an expert on Red Fox because I have called so few of them, but my experience tells me they are the most light shy of all the critters. I've probably only called a dozen red fox at night, but all except one put on the brakes as soon as the red light hit them. I know some of these reds had never been called before - day or night. No problem calling reds during daylight hours - they come in fast and furious just like a gray. Several friends have also told me about having trouble with reds at night using a light.

LEONARD: I' not an expert either Bill. I think we hunt pretty much the same stuff from time to time, and I haven't even seen as many (Red fox) as you have, so I really shouldn't generalize. Also, I've only seen two Ringtail Cats, and I want to state that I left them be, because they are protected in most states. I don't kill Kit Fox either. You know, this whole topic of night hunting is under-documented, if you know what I mean? For instance, you know what I meant by burning the 360, others may not.

DAA: So, uhhh, well, what DID you mean by burning a 360? I'm assuming it ain't like the one's I used to do in my '68 Chevelle?

Night hunting has only been legal for a few years here in Utah. I don't know ANYBODY that knows ANYTHING about it. We've lucked into a few critters just hitting the light at random but I don't think it was anything more than luck.

LEONARD:  I use a home made double light with a 100 Watt aircraft landing light superimposed on a red fog, which throws a wide narrow band of light. The "burn" light isn't used at all until the shooter calls for it, and then he usually has no more than 5 seconds for target acquisition and touching it off. This doesn't blind the Coyote, it is just for identification and selecting the center of mass. If however, nothing shows up after whatever you are satisfied with for the stand... 10-15-20 minutes/ you make one or two quick circles (360) with the pencil beam, sometimes you will light up a dog that was cooling his heels beyond the range of the red fog. Usually you can't do anything with him, but at least you have something to build on.

ALEX: Red, or any "color" blind doesn't mean that you don't see that color. You just don't see it as well. For instance, none of us can see in the ultraviolet.... unless we have had the lens removed and the replacement lens doesn't have a UV blocker (not a good idea, but a bunch of implants without the blocker were put in during the first lens implants) Therefore, like Ray's dad, I believe, you just don't see that color very well. One of the famous artists was color blind. Can't remember his name, he was the one who cut off his ear. You can see the strange colors in his paintings. You really don't know what color anyone sees, except you.

BILL D:  I call at night from the bed of a pickup mainly because I can hook up a 12 volt spotlight and have an elevated position to pick up eyes better. I use a red lens over a Q-Beam spotlight and usually use a cassette caller so that I have both hands free and you have a much greater choice of sounds to use with cassette tapes. For coons, I usually start with a Woodpecker distress tape and after 10 minutes, I switch to a Raccoon fight tape. The fight tape is available from Johnny Stewart and is the best sound I have ever used for consistent 'Coon calling. It mainly attracts big dominant 'Coons and they usually come fast and mad - you may have to bark at them when they're 30 yds. out to get them to stop for a shot.

JOHN: I can vouch for the effectiveness of Bill's technique. We brought in a big Boar 'Coon just a couple nights ago with the fox fight tape. He was coming fast and furious!

Good thing Bill was keeping an eye on his Fox Fight tape or it mighta' disappeared. That one tape has called in most of the critters we have gotten on our outings.

BILL D:  John St.Clair successfully avenged his somewhat tarnished reputation as lousy shot by single-handedly fending off an awesome attack by our furry foe. Two running shots made off hand ended the career of a 'Coon and a Fox that were closing in rather quickly. Two head shots on sneaky snipers peering from the brush brought to rest another Fox and a lowly Opossum. I am not going to say that we called up a Opossum as everyone knows this is impossible, but a Opossum suddenly appeared 50 yds. out glaring at the red light and listening intently to the sweet sound of a Cottontail in distress.

Now, about the sneaky sniper Fox, he took it 1/4 inch away from being shot right between the eyes and needless to say this fox is way beyond plastic surgery - we're talking about a near headless fox.

Well John, I congratulate you on your comeback and I am proud to say that I was your radar operator and had a ball watching you take out the elusive targets.

ALEX: After reading all these stories on night calling, and sharing them with Cousin Bobby, I called Johnny Stewart and he picked up a light and "redded" the lens with dikum, and off we went last night. My wife asked me if this was going to be like our usual spring gobbler hunts (or, for that matter, many of this year's Duck hunts... wish DU would get it right!). We weren't sure we wanted to advertise what we were doing, so we took my virgin Hornet and his 22 Mag. First setup was near where we call up Turkeys. Scope set on 3x we swept the tree line (boy is the little Nikon bright). Might need a little more dikum on the lens. Put the "Super Coon" tape in his car stereo, opened the doors, and cut 'er on.... Gawd is that an awful sound! Swept the light back and forth along the tree line every few minutes. Nothing.... Then, all of a sudden, they attacked! So many came it sounded like a herd of cattle...... It was! About 50 head, two bulls, and another 50 calves! They had come from two fields away. Boy, is that call effective! Next time we have a fence problem, we know how to reassemble 'em.

We set up in two more places, got cold, and figured we needed to do some more research. Came back in the house about 10:00. Among questions to ask is how loud do you run the call? How bright should the light be? How long to call in one spot? Is there an effective tape not attractive to cows?

Had a good time anyhow. 'Coon season ends Tuesday night. Will we see one before then?

One thing I may do is NOT TAKE THE VIRGIN HORNET! Think Theo remarked that Hornets were beset with a really malignant jinx.

JOHN: We set up with area all around us so the critters can come from nearly any direction. Gives you 360 possibilities 'stead of 180. Often they will come in and then circle downwind at less than 100 yards out, usually 50 or so. Sometimes they come straight at you till you feed 'em something with a high lead content.

As for volume, start out loud for a while, then reduce it a bit. You don't want to blare like the helicopter scene in that "Apocalypse Now" movie but fairly loud. Take into account whether you are fighting a wind. Sound will travel better downwind than into it. Use a directional speaker and rotate it in all directions for a while.

Don't know what that "Dikum" stuff was you put on your light but it may not be what you need. If the light is to bright it will spook the varmints. You can get a red lens at your local gun store for about $6.00 that will fit most lights. Your light doesn't need to be bright. A spotlight with 250,000 candle power is PLENTY. Sweep the light around in a 360 degree circle. We had critters come in from all directions. They have come out of the brush, trees, rocks, up fencelines, across wide open fields and even down the ranch roads. You just never know.

I have never heard the "Super 'Coon" tape but I do know this, we played our 'Coon fight tape for some time at a couple locations and did not get a response from anything. We played the Fox fight tape and got nearly instant response from several locations. In fact, after switching from a 'Coon fight to a Fox fight is when that Boar 'Coon came in. He didn't care about other 'Coons fighting but them Foxes ticked him off! We have gone out a couple times at night and not a single response either. Be aware you may have "dead nights" Don't give up yet.

The last thing I would say is, get yourself a variety of tapes. As I said sometimes things came in on one sound and not another. Try one sound for about 10 minutes or so and then try something else. What we are starting to do is have two tape players, the primary to call 'em in and a secondary for a different sound in case they start to leave or won't come all the way in. Try a hurt rabbit and then switch suddenly to the Fox or 'Coon fight.

ALEX: Thanks, John. Know we did a bunch of things wrong. Regardless, it's always fun to get out. Kinda' hard telling Cousin Bobby that his 2 million candlepower stadium lighting system isn't the thing to use. Haven't been able to locate a light in our local sporting goods stores, 'cause "Jacklighting" for Deer is very illegal hereabouts. We were really careful last night, since it is not unusual for folks to call the Sheriff to tell him about unidentified spotlights at night. Legal to spotlight Fox, questionable about other critters.

Have a Johnny Stewart call system under my desk at the office, and hadn't brought it home (sneak in problem).

JOHN: Assuming it is legal to spotlight some critters, pick up the phone and call the local Game Warden and/or Sheriff. Let them know where you will be and what you are doing. If you have any doubts about legality, just ask. Better than being told after the Warden shows up.

That red lens will limit the probability of someone seeing your light very far. I had a game warden tear into the driveway at my in-laws one night when we were out spotting before this red lens thing was widely known. He had seen our light waving around and had come from a location over 20 miles away! We didn't do anything illegal but it impressed upon us the need to notify someone. Seems he had been trying to catch somebody for sometime that was road hunting in that area.

That system needs sneakin' eh? I think you need to review the recent posts about that. Guess they have all been deleted but you probably read them. (Talked about how to get new toys past the wife without her finding them. Very amusing conversation indeed!)

Personally, I think a regular old boom box will work for a tape player. You can get a directional speaker for about $20.00 at local gun stores. That should work fine. I haven't tried it yet but I have a $14.95 AM-FM Cassette player that has an earphone jack in it. Speaker should plug right in.

 BILL D: Alex - Raccoon Fight, not Super Coon is the tape to use. It is best to start with a primary critter calling tape like a squealing Woodpecker or Cottontail for 10 minutes then switch to the fight tape.

John has yet to see the Raccoon Fight Tape work like it usually does, but the night before he and I went hunting, I called up three 'Coons with it and have called hundreds of 'Coons with it over the years.

Be sure to work your light continuously from the moment you start calling and use pretty fast 360 sweeps to try and pick up the eyes before the varmints spot your vehicle. Their eyes are so bright even with a red light that you can't miss seeing them even with fairly fast sweeps. With lots of moonlight, it is very important to sweep fast. Even though most 'Coons come hard and fast to the tape, if one hangs up then start lip squeaking and turn the volume down some on the caller. Don't forget to charge the battery on your JS caller before you go hunting. Don't over call an area - try to line up several different places to go. When the season ends, keep on calling and leave the gun at home - you can't imagine how much you can learn about critter behavior to different sounds when you are not trying to harvest them - I have played with Gray Fox for 10 minutes by switching to several different tapes.